The first Christmas that I spent at my in-laws after getting into making drinks was my first introduction to kirsch. This German spirit is included in many of my mother-in-law’s Christmas cookies (which all come from her mother), so there’s always a bottle around. She asked me if I knew what else we could do with it; I did not. I tried anyway, but I did not succeed (or really even get close).
That was more than 4 years ago. Today, I’m ready to get back on the horse and have good a good answer to that question. I’m determined to find a good use for those bottles you bought for cooking and are now scared of.
What is Kirschwasser?
Essentially, it’s cherry brandy. Specifically, it’s traditionally made with morello cherries from the Black Forest. That’s where the it comes from and has been made for centuries (at least). It’s a spirit, not a liqueur, and because it’s clear and fruit-based it’s considered an eau de vie. Kirsch is made by fermenting whole cherries and then distilling them down multiple times to remove all color. The aging process is largely inert and doesn’t impart color or flavor directly.
There’s no difference between kirschwasser and kirsch, it’s just a labeling difference you may encounter.
It’s similar to Maraschino in that they both use the full cherry and pick up interesting nuttiness from the pits. But, kirsch isn’t sweetened at all which makes it much more particular in cocktails. That’s probably why you’ve encountered kirsch in backing recipes and Maraschino in cocktails.
Kirsch in Baking
The baking history likely comes from the mid-century rise of the Black Forest cake, which, as the name suggests, relies on kirsch for its distinctive forest fruit flavoring. That’s a bit after the heyday of cherries jubilee, which also relies on kirsch for flavor and alcohol content to set on fire. It’s used in many other recipes as well, so chances are you’ve bought a bottle if you enjoy baking desserts.
When backing, kirsch isn’t often used in very large quantities, which is probably why you still have most of a bottle collecting dust in your pantry. It’s also likely that you bought the cheapest bottle you could find since you weren’t planning on drinking it – maybe it looks like this. If that’s the case, I can’t promise you’ll enjoy cocktails made with that bottle.
Even if it’s something you don’t expect to use frequently, I always recommend an upgrade. I enjoy this bottle from Schladerer, and that’s what I used for all of the cocktails below.
Kirsch in Cocktails
A note: the folks drinking kirsch the longest drink it on its own, chilled, after dinner as a digestif. So, that’s the purest way to consume the juice. It’s not my thing, primarily because the ethers on the nose are intense. But, if you generally enjoy a bracing sip with a good burn and a subtle fruitiness, you should try it this way! I think if you enjoy drinking gin neat you’ll enjoy a good kirsch neat.
For a spirit with such a long history that has found its way into so many homes over that period, there are shockingly few “famous” recipes that include kirsch. There’s only one true classic (the Rose) that I dive into below, and the closest-second is the Farewell to Hemingway (which inspired my own creation below). It can’t substitute for anything else directly and be successful, and it requires a delicate touch.
The Rose – the Only Classic Kirsch Cocktail
The Rose comes from the famous Harry’s Bar in Paris. Or at least, that’s where it seems to have gotten popular. Given Hemingway’s affinity for the place, it makes sense that his Farewell includes the same strong base.
This drink is a reverse martini with the spirit substituted at its core. It calls for strawberry syrup, which I don’t have and didn’t care to make, so I subbed with some pure sugar. It’s a tasty drink, but it’s specific in a way I can’t quite put my finger on. The kirsch is very strong on the nose, but the dry vermouth dominates the flavor profile. It’s a strong nutty finish after that. The fruit syrup would actually do well here; I’ll try that someday soon.
More Modern Approaches
The Acacia cocktail is almost as old as the Rose, but it drinks much more modern. I think this is because of Benedictine’s inclusion and recent comeback. What we have here is a more standard martini with the vermouth subbed out for a combination. The kirsch is subtle, but it matters. The dominant flavor is the Benedictine, but the kirsh nose and finish helps tame the syrupy sweetness. I used an Old Tom gin, but something a bit more straightforward may work better.
The Writer’s Block is my own creation, inspired by the Farewell to Hemingway. I’m overrun with amazing local grapefruit at the moment, and I was intrigued by the flavor combination of a sweeter citrus here. I added the nut bitters to help amplify that part of the kirsch. I prefer this to the original because it’s softer without lime juice. It also has almost no nose, and I didn’t think killing the ethers from the kirsch was even possible. The flavors meld well, and the result is a daisy cocktail that delivers a deep nuttiness alongside strong citrus high notes.
